Sierra Nevada - Back to the Mountains

Tobias Heller
7. Juli 2017
5 Min. Lesezeit

Sierra Nevada, translated "snowy mountain range", is a mountain range in Andalucia, which can be easily reached from Granada. It is a popular place for hikers, as well offers skiing posibilities despite the southern location. Parts of the range are included in Sierra Nevada National Park. Also Almeria and Malaga are not far away and sometimes serve as starting point for a trip into the outstreches of the mountain range.

Arrival

The way to the bottom of Sierra Nevada

Too late we get out of our cave like appartment located in Albeicin in Granada. We walk the tiny streets with steep stairs climbing downwards, pass the cities center, grab some supplies for the day and walk to the place where the busses to Güejar, a small village, are supposed to leave frequently. We stand there puzzled and uncertain - oh how often I had those feelings, especially in Italy, standing or heading somewhere with no clue if it indeed is the reckoned place. After a while the yellow line appears from around the corner, we are stretching out our arms to get the driver's attention and hop on quickly. During the ride Sierra Nevada seems to be getting closer and I am excited and eager to get my feet back on mountainous terrain, working them hard to climb up the steep and stony slopes. I expect a terrific landscape with peaks covered in snow and juicy green blooming valleys with freezing cold water running splashing in the wild river bed beneath. Gradually the street is climbing upwards and winds itself snakelike through large rocks, and suddenly opens up the view onto a lake that lies glistening, somehow welcoming in the natural water basin, those walls are made of the mountain rocks and stones.

The bus slants into a halt at a little square in Güejar Sierra Nevada, a small village that serves as starting point for many hikers to do daytrips or longer tours into the mountains. We equip ourselves with a map and further information, thereby sticking to recommendations of our host Nico that the 'Camino de Estrella' would be a nice walk for a day hike. Unfortunately the direct start of the pathway is located further outside the village therefore we have to follow the street for about an hour until we finally can start the proper paths. Futile attempts to hitchhike this segment are turned down by all the very few cars that pass us here. Anyways we walk in a fast pace, in the far off distance the high peaks covered partially with snow are smirking down at us, and I can't do anything but admire their wild, majestic beauty.

Hiking

A low Beginning and a high End

The first kilometers of the way turn out to be quite boring, leading along gravel paths in relatively flat surface, nothing special and overly exciting to me yet and I my initial explorer mood starts to decline. We encounter several abandoned buildings with collapsed roofs along the way. After a while the path starts to climb, and therefore at a certain point the snowy icy peaks are right in front of us. We first start to walk amidst hilly landscape, deeply overgrown by juicy green bushes, which, after a steeper climb drops down below. We are now starting to hike along a path with dark soil and occasional granite colored stones beneath our feet, along the steep slope that tumbles down into a valley, where a river is partially visible mainly however stays hidden under the shadows of high trees and bushes. Both of us maintain a good pace and I am happy to see Gianfranco is able to keep up.

Several thin clear flows of water are crossing our paths, from those downflows we take some sips or splash our faces on the way to refresh ourselves. After at least two further hours have passed the way bends in a long bow, leads downwards and we find ourselves amidst leftovers of piled up bricks that seem to have been put there ages ago. We pass an elder man with his wife who sat down here to take a break in the warmth of the sun surrounded by the ruins, overlooking a bridge that leads over the sideways outstreched valley. While passing over, the high peaks that have been constantly in front of us vanish out of view for a while, in order to appear once more straigt ahead, mocking us to keep on going.

The deeper inside we intrude, the wilder and more beautiful the landscape appears. We rarely meet others. It is a fantastic feeling, while the muscles in my legs are working continuously, sending beads of sweat onto my forehead. The air is fresh and clean, once in a while a gust of wind, that seems to be cooled down by the snowy peaks, would catch us despite the warmth of the sun, sending a shiver down our heated spines. We walk a little bit downwards, and we are now on the same hight like the deep valley which we have been continuously following, while the difference has leveled out the more we proceeded inwards. Softly the river flushes by searching it's way past heavy rounded stones and ragged rocks and gets broader as we continue. We suddenly step across a herd of goats, which are blocking our way but fleeing from us startled once we get too close to them, glancing carefully from further away. Now that we have met those furry companions, we spot goats allover, grazing and chasing each other playfully. Idyllic. Peaceful. I wonder if anyone could be able to not like the mountainous landscape, but I reckon most people refrain from the laborious work of getting to these precious places.

It is already late and we have to think about our return, unfortunately there is no way to do a round path so we have to go back the same track we came from. We lay down here, unpack our provisions, gulp down happily our sugary drinks and fruit juices and devour the sandwiches and apples we have left. I close my eyes, and I am so deeply relaxed now, that I don't really fall asleep but slip into a few brief moment of unconsciousness. Groggily I slump out of my half-sleep, somehow surprised of the surrounding I am in, Gianfranco lying beside me, apparently also waking from a deep rest. After packing our bags we stroll a bit further along the river, then turn around to start the long walk back. How great it would have been to have a tent and a few days to spend here, with no people around, just us camping here in the wilderness, staying for the night and keep on walking deeper and higher the next day to explore more of Sierra Nevada. Nonetheless the day hike was perfect.

Hiking

The Return - Back to Granada

The walk back home seems longer despite the descent and the therefore less heavy-going walk due to the fact that going an unknown path is always more challenging and interesting than doing the same one rewards. It has already become quite late and the sun is setting when we achieve the end of the tour. We admire the golden sunlight that envelops the whole valley and touches everything from the trees to the river, which reflects the rays of gold back up with beaming radiancy. Somewhere from the now visible village misty clouds of smoke are evaporating while the sun finally is completely gone below the horizon.