Dirty Naples - Beauty or a Beast
- Tobias Heller
- 6. Okt. 2016
- 7 Min. Lesezeit
Naples - a city with a bad reputation, people I meet telling me to take care here as it seems to be a dangerous place to be. Wow, how nice that my next aim is this promising and overly welcoming city. Somehow I am uncertain if that is the place to be, but I try to not let stories of robbery, pollution, trash and ungracious unkind people spoil my impression, trying to make up my own one once I am there. Naples is the third largest city in Italy and the capital of the Campania region. Closely are important sites, such as Vesuvius and Pompeii
Prologue
Arrival in the ominous Place
I get off at the bus station, the sky overcast and not likely to improve much for the rest of the day, but at least there is no rain - yet. Once there I can't shake the feeling off that some people keep staring at me here or at least sneak a glimpse on me, trying at any instant to grab me and rob me off my belongings. I hold on tight to my stuff, at the same time knowing that this is ridiculous and those feelings only came up because of previous comments and the darkened unappealing sky. Anyways, better safe than sorry, so I try not to be sloppy with my personal things for the whole extent of my stay here. I cross over the heavily frequented street in front of the train station building, and walk in direction hostel, which is unfortunately at another side of the city which means that I need to cross most of the city to get to the harbor. Right in front of the station a confusing construction of metallic pipes and inlaid glass surfaces consumes most of the square. It turns out, that escalators are leading downwards into a shopping mall.
Sightseeing & Strolling
The streets of Naples - Filthy, Narrow and Oppressive
I start the following day with a stroll through several of the streets leading into one of the larger plazas not far off from my hostel. This place appears oppressing and sad to me, with its grey surface and dirty, grubby industrialized houses framing it. The worst amidst this scene is the rubbish that is spread all around here, regrettably amongst which I find broken plastic chairs, a filthy mattress, overflowing containers, food packages, plastic bags, various debris and remnants of broken furniture. I am repulsed by this place, even the small church situated on the outlines of the unappealing plaza looks sad and pitiful.
This might just have been a very bad place to pick for a start, therefore I proceed on to look around the city, and my interest is more awakened once I step into small little alleys with high walls, despite being somehow scruffy they are interesting indeed to explore. The color of the walls is spalling off and the facades badly maintained in general, small little balconies are lined up in rows, several of them loaded with plastic bottles and buckets, hanged washed clothes or carpets to dry or even whole bikes, as it seems to be safer high up in the air than downstairs. Motorbikes are roaring through the narrowness of the dirty, unloveable street. Apparently these people don't really know how to slow down and use the brakes - if they have got any attached to their scooters at all, maybe they deem it unnecessary. It is difficult to take in all the details that somehow make those streets unique an interesting, despite the fact that they are not really giving me a welcoming and hearty feeling.
Viewpoint
The monster from Above
I decide to explore the northern area, it looks promising on the map, as small winding pathways seem to lead up the hill here leading through a neighborhood named Stella and might offer a good view. The tiny streets start to climb continuously upwards, directing me all the while through the typical narrow streets of Naples. Up there indeed it offers a good view over the city center with several high buildings sticking out of the otherwise smaller houses, with the inactive volcano Vesuvio in the background, slightly blurred by the exhaust gases that evaporate upwards from the city's gorge. I feel much better up here, out of the chaotic, somehow oppressive streets below.
Climbing up further, I encounter a weirdly clean, untouched area, green perfectly trimmed grass surfaces with such an intense green glowing froggy color that makes it seem like an artificially arranged lawn. Occasionally here and there palm trees stick out high up in the air. With all the dirty, little rubbish laden streets this somehow seems surrealistic after all. The Museo di Capodimonte is located up here as well as a park, that truly is immense. I enter into the park, but after walking a few meters I recognize that here actually is nothing to see, only a bunch of very broad an perfectly straight gravel streets are leading on and on, therefore I return back to the Museum.
From here I climb down the streets, and then proceed by making a long circle around the city's center in order to go to Castel Sant'Elmo, once I arrive there it is actually too late to enter into the castle, but anyways that is not truly what I am here for. I am right in time for the sunset up here at one of the best viewpoints over the city. I bought a bottle of beer on the way, and silently I enjoy the sunset and once darkness falls upon the city, the lights of street lamps, houses and the spotlights on facades successively flicker into life. This alone makes me feel that it was worth to go here and pay Naples a visit.
I sit there for a long time, thinking deeply in the still warm evening warmth, but then heave myself up, slightly dizzy from getting up too hastily and the beer I drunk. I proceed the way downstairs, which climbs zick-zacking in dimly lit passageways and stairs towards the city's center. The initial uncertainty and the feeling of stepping into hazardous territory with crimes happening around every corner is gone. This city is not like that after all, surely bad things could happen anywhere at anytime, regardless of that I believe people tend to exaggerate, simply reciting stories they have snatched somewhere along the way, accumulating them into bad stories that may mainly result from the badly organized maintenance of the city.
Events & Curiosities
Soft Whispers in the Air
Once down from the quietness of the viewing point the way leads directly into the main center, with lively streets and people still out for shopping and having dinner. The evening atmosphere inside here is quite nice, and I joyfully wander around. My stomach keeps growling and I notice I am starving, and being fed up by plain bread and fruits, which is mostly the easiest to grab while on the go, I decide to go and eat a pizza for a change - treating myself today. The prices here in Naples for a whole pizza, if you choose a simple Pizza Margarita, are incredibly low with about 3 to 4 Euro. This is depending on the area you dine in, and also, if you decide to eat in or out as they charge extra for cutlery in Italy.
It happens that I accidentally spot something that appeals my attraction. A wide plaza opens up, with a semi circle of columns that are, strangely, dipped into blueish light from above. Yet that is not the only thing that draws me nearer, from afar I can already make out the faint ensemble of pianos playing, and as I step closer I see that in between all those columns various pianos are placed, with women and men alike playing a rapid classical tune together. Happy to have encountered this kind of open space concert I sit down amongst the dark shadows, listening to the melody. The unexpected is always the best!
Architecture
Churches and the Sinner
Naples as well hosts some churches, that might after visiting Rome and it's stunningly breathtaking churches may either seem negligible or not similarly impressive. Anyways I enjoy to have a look inside and they offer some interesting architectural features as well as colorful frescos on the walls. Do I need to take care of not getting an overdose of churches or even worse, possibly as a faithless sinner burst into flames one day I step over the verge of any of them? Maybe. Maybe not.
Coastline & Seaside
A car cruise along the Coast
During my stay I get to know Francesco, an Italian guy living a bit outside of Naples with his family. He so kindly offers to take me around in his car, to explore the coastline of Naples together. We move sideways out of Naples Center in westbound direction all the way to Pozzuoli, from where we would enjoy the wonderful view over to the islands, such as the tiny one closeby the coastline, called Nisida as well as others located in the background. The largest one, Ischia Island, fades off in the background. So after all, Napoli proofs it's true beauty. Though the streets may be dirty and filthy, somehow dark and somber partially as well, it turns out to be overly satisfying and entertaining to stroll through the streets. Besides that, the coastline is beautiful and compensates for the condition Naples streets are in. What makes Naples worth to stay besides the city itself of course are the volcano Vesuvio and and the ancient city ruins of Pompeji. Despite that, I absolutely enjoyed my stay, though not the perfect place with shiny palaces and splendid promenades and a typical family vacation goal, the city offers something completely different. In the end the monster wouldn't become a prince to me, though it may be lovable anyways.
Daytrips
Escape plan for the Chaos: Vesuvio & Pompeii
Once you get the feeling of having a necessity to escape this city, some cool spots are just a stones throw away: The volcano Vesuvio as well as the ancient city ruins of Pompeii, which I will also visit during my stay and about which you can read more in the associated article.
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