Cordoba - Pearl of Andalusia
- Tobias Heller
- 7. Juli 2017
- 6 Min. Lesezeit
After a second night in Malaga's airport, I walk down to the center of Malaga, which by no means is close by as the walk indeed consumes nearly one hour to the bus station. Cordoba is the first place I am going to see in Spain as a solo traveller once more, and is supposed to be a beauty in the depths of Andalusia. It has the warmest summer high temperatures in Spain and the historic center is also a UNESO world heritage site.
Sightseeing
A glimpse inside
I get a ride to Cordoba by car, with another local girl who is going back and forth between Malaga and Cordoba on a regular basis for educational reasons. As we both need to head in the same direction she accompanies me most of the distance and is so kind as to explain some of the cities main spots while passing them. I am now travelling without break for over a month, being ar a diffferent spot every day and I am a bit overcome by the feeling of getting tired of moving around, to my shame not really carefully listening to my spontaneous voluntary guide. I am sullenly retreated with my mind into the depths of my own body, creating a weird kind of muffling bubble around me as to shield myself temporarily from further income of information in order to avoid an inevitable congestion of my very brain synapsises. Travelling can take it's toll over a time, not knowing where to sleep the next days as you have to keep an eye on your budget, daily on the run through the various cities in the constantly same choice of clothes that is limited by my backpacks filling capacity. Meeting new people every second or third day, establishing short time friendships and connections indeed, though always restricted to the extent of my stay and of course making compromises while sleeping at someone's place. There are downsides indeed where there is no way talking around it, but at the same time if you are able to accept and deal with them, you can fully embrace the beauty and postive aspects of it. Occasionally the downsides would be pouring down on me, affecting me slighlty more than normally. I am certain that this is also due to the fact of travelling on my own again now, as my travel faithful companion Gianfranco had to go back to sicily the previous day. Certainly I am used to travelling solo and frequent goodbyes, though now after one month in constant company a somehow empty space is left.
My host Helios greets me with his dog Coffee - what a great name. At least his name is not Tobi, as - and I have heard that allover my travels - this name is likely to be given to animals, dogs especially, less to human beings. Thanks for that, mum and dad. Helios is just about to improve his english, going to spend the upcoming months in the netherlands, doing farm works and living an experience apart from his home country, which I'd encourage everyone to do. Despite him being busy with organisatory engagement, packing and fixing various things around in his appartment he kindly offers to show me around a bit in Cordoba's center. We stroll through the busy streets with the sun piercing penetrantly down on us in open space. I can only imagine how it must feel like here in summer as the heat presses into the city, making the air thick and unbreathable in the process.
From here the Calle de los Floreros is not far, in fact it is only a narrow passageway between buildings, therefore lying in shadows that cool down our heated skins. Blue flower pots are attatched to the walls , in rows and up and downs decorating the street in a random pattern of flowers, something that seems to be comon in Andalucia as I have seen it also in Granada. It leads up into a little square and seems to be constantly occupied and filled with tourists these days. Though it is nice, I don't feel that it is overly more interesting than lots of other random streets around Cordoba in which you may find unique hidden treasures in form of decoration, details and curiosities along the go, unexpected, thereby much more precious. As we wander through the streets I indeed spot a similar concept concerning decorations and street constructions like in Granada, though here to me seems a bit more rustic and rough than in the city to the foot of Sierra Nevada.
Sightseeing
The bridge into the Mosque
We stroll from the Mosque over a busy bridge, the Roman Bridge of Cordoba, leading over the here very shallow river Guadalquivir to the other side of Cordoba. Musicians are positioned along the bridge, and once we have passed over and we look back, the Mosque sits directly and prominently in front of us, the exterior impression not as impressive as I thought it may be, but keeping in mind, that the inside of the mosque surpasses with it's beauty.
Sightseeing
The Alcazar instead of the Mosque
I get up early in order to see the mosque, the main touristic attraction, which is supposed to be free in the first two morning hours. From Helios place the walk is not that far, and I arrive about 20 minutes before the actual opening time, queuing at one of the southern gates amongst only a handful of people, assuming that I am lucky to be early. As the gates open and we walk into the square we have seen already yesterday, an enormous crowd of others walks on to the ticket counter, partially running and hurrying hastily as if they are chased by something visible only to them. I queue at the line and unfortunately notice that they are all paying to get inside, puzzled I ask others who inform me that during the semana santa the free entry is not available. Considering what to do, paying ten euro to get inside with a huge bunch of tourists, being perched into the mosque and possibly not really able to enjoy the sacred place while taking constantly care to not bump into someone else, I finally give up my place and stroll away from the line, those end isn't locatable anymore meanwhile. Hoping to not regret that later on, a bit grumpy about the inadequate timing I had with visiting Cordoba, I stroll off in order to visit other parts of the city, skipping the Mosque.
Checking the map I decide to go over to the Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos. I decide to finally spend some money here in order to get into the vast outstretches of gardens and courtyards. Large water ponds on various levels with small fountains are nestled in between high hedges, palm trees and various flower beds. The round, properly cut cylindric trees that appear like overly fat freestanding columns and reach up to several meter throw stripes of shadow along the way, between those the sunlight flickers in and out of reach while walking along the broad aisles.
The ponds are nicely set into the area, giving the place a refreshing cool appearance on a hot summer day, while water lilies are growing all around the ponds and large beds of flowers have been neatly arranged amidst the garden. High, upwards stretching palm trees are occasionally overlooking even the highest hedges in here, in between those are marble benches that welcome strangers passing by to linger in the garden. Some lower hedges are perfectly symmetric shaped and constantly maintained in order to retain their perfectly trimmed shape. It is a nice place, which presupposes to bring in enough time in order to dwell in the beautiful gardens, as to walk through them would not take overly too long by itself, and the most joy can be gained by simply spending time in there.
Stairs lead up in one of the buildings, which offers a view over into the center of Cordoba and the square in front of the Alcazar, which is lively green with rows of palms, alternating with trees and hedges. To the other side the huge garden can be seen from above, revealing the construction and design of the garden and it's little squares.
Sightseeing
The streets of Cordoba - Magic in every Corner
Indeed the nicest way to spend time is to simply stroll around, as for me the greatest attraction is not necessarily one of the big touristic sites, but the city's lifelines and Andalusian flair and charm. Around the jewish synagogue at the west side of the city I get immersed into the streets, walking around the narrow alleys without specific goal in mind. I pass by small little shops with pots of colorful teas in the front, accompanied by a appealing fragrant. Another simple corner just draws my attention by a huge surface of the wall which is patterned with ceramic tiles, the sun shades are drawn down, this all adds up to the original, typical local style the streets have retained over years and what makes it so unique and worthwhile. Here and there an open square would open up, maybe the floor is designed by huge round differently colored stones in a fancy pattern or maybe it is simply palms trees that have been placed here, stacking up high and nestled together amidst way smaller houses, making this little square special and unique. The tiny details make the most difference.
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