Palermo Part I - My Personal Sicilian Beauty

Tobias Heller
4. Nov. 2016
13 Min. Lesezeit

Worn out again and tired from last nights experience and a long walk in 'Valle dei Templi' I take the train to go to the northern coast of Sicily, my goal: Palermo - not knowing yet that I will spend more than 3 months there and that I will meet the most gorgeous people here, work there and it somehow will feel like home in the end. Palermo is sicily's capital set spectacularly at the seaside framed by mountains in the north coast off the Tyrrhenian Sea, and has also been under the influence of Arabs and Normans during it's history. The inhabitants are called Palermitani, Italian speaking but also having a strong Sicilian dialect of their own.

Streetart & Curiosities

A stroll could take you anywhere - Palermo's adventurous Streets

Palermo offers indeed some attractions that can be on some kind of 'to-do' list, but what I enjoy the most over everything about Palermo is to take a stroll through the numerous small streets that are winding it's way through the city. The deeper you proceed into the maze of streets, the more I am overcome by the feeling of being lost, though not in a bad way. Within the depths there may slumber somehow filthy and rancid streets, sprayed and smeared by graffitis and wall art, a bunch of stray dogs may have occupied the place, resting on utterly gross mattresses that inexplicably have been dropped into the tiny street's pavement. Bright orange pipelines may be attached to outer walls in a wild messy pattern, overgrown partially by green mosses and grass, of which no one seems to take care and therefore it somehow looks like someone spent hours thinking about how to arrange the houses outer wall in order to give it a weird but fitting appeal. It all has the typical Italian flair, partially a bit somber and a creepy sensation may run down your spine while running around between the more decadent, not at all maintained and poorer areas, with decayed and run-down facades, broken window shutters of which the paint is mostly gone off already, leaving the wood underneath to rot and break off in splinters. Whereas in other parts you may find the most lovable and gorgeous decorations and small off-center handcraft shops, which give the feel that someone put a hand on this and thought about it carefully, actually creating things on purpose and giving it an artistic flair. What attracts most in Palermo is the diversity between the things - it can range from rancid, disgusting and ugly into beauty and affection just around the corner, which somehow makes this city unique and interesting. You never know what lurks behind the corners and what may wait there in the small alley that you haven't strolled down yet, lying in the cooling shadow of the high time-worn, withered walls. The streets to me seem always filled up with life, people strolling through various markets and makeshift shops where you basically can find everything except you are searching for something specific. Carpets and fabrics, fake clothes and bags of well-known brands laid out on unstable tables, electronic and highly impractical gadgets and toys, dangling lamps of various sorts, piled up iron wear which seems to have been taking from a disposal site in order to gain some profit from it, and so much more uncountable things are to be found just right in the streets. Palermo, a place with manifoldness, decadency ever so prominent in every corner, is a place for me that fascinates and captivates me, where I could never get fed up with walking the numerous streets that can be so refreshingly surprising and unexpected.

Harbour & Seaside

Foro Italico & the Harbour

One of my favorite spots in Palermo is the large harbor, which is together with the port of Messina Sicily's most important port, establishing a connection between Genova, Cagliari, Naples, Tunis and other cities. The harbor's main site next to the city center leads in a semicircle bow to the east and then flattens out straight into the Foro Italico, a long promenade along the coast, with gigantic cubic concrete blocks nestled along the coastline, who'd break the waters incoming strong waves before they clash onto the walkway. The harbor is mainly populated by ships, rowing up in long lines, creating a confusing pattern of masts that rake up into the sky. From afar huge cranes for maintaining the ships are sitting close to the water, appearing like oversized an massive giants that overview the whole port, while other giants in form of mountainous colossuses are waiting at the far end of Palermo. I love to stroll along this part of the harbor, a large but slightly expensive cafe is nestled along the way, people are swooshing past going for a run, muscular rowers are practicing at the far end tongue and are quite a sight while they thrust their arms up and down in simultaneousness and a stable continuous rhythm. Single fishermen are standing at some of the landings, waiting in loneliness for a fish to bite the underwater hook.

The further you proceed, the walkway leads along one of the main roads, and a large open green meadowy space reveals itself, with the promenade of the Foro Italico behind. Most of the days you may find sellers with their colorful toy kites flying up high in the air, swinging back and forth with the alternating wind, young boys are playing a intense match of soccer on the large grounds dotted with palms and bushes to the sides. On a windy day, the waves can become utterly high, crashing against the rowed up cubics and sending a huge foamy splash of water flying up high into the air, and even though it might be a warm, sunny day, the wind here can be cooling and refreshing if you don't happen to be there in the high season.

Harbour & Seaside

Cathedrale di Palermo - A sight from outside

Though I have seen a sheer overload of churches and cathedrals allover in Italy, and it might occur the be enough meanwhile, Palermo's Cathedral is beautiful and a wonderful sight to see. Following the long Vittorio Emanuele with touristic visitor shops that have everything from ceramic platters, cups and vases, postcards, books, and various other souvenirs in stock as well as tiny take-away snack-bars, gelaterias and bakeries, where you find some of the most delicious sicilian snacks. My favourites amongst those are Arancinci, a ball of rice that hides other ingredients such as mushrooms, ragout or spinach in it's inner core with an oil-tanned brown coating on the outside, measuring the size of a tennis ball in most cases. You may not only get it there, but also along Via Maqueda and other streets as well. Other specialties around here are Cannolo, a crunchy wrap of fried chocolaty dough filled up with sweat creamy ricotta cheese, decorated with icing sugar on it's top and either crumbles of pistachios or gelatinized pieces of orange decoratively spread onto the ricotta that looks temptingly out from under the tilted ends of the coating. The best is to never try it, otherwise you may addicted to the mouthwatering sweetness and tastefulness.

While proceeding the street onwards, the sight to the right offers a stunningly set cathedral around the corner of the last building, with a large square in it's front and framed by a fence that alternates with high pedestals, from which iconic holy statues observe the area. This cathedral is indeed impressive and beautiful, whereas once you step inside you may have the feeling that the inside not always corresponds with the outside, as it is not just with buildings but also with human beings. For me the inside is no that impressive, the various domes on top are not well preserved and paint is peeling off on various spots and the church in general is moreover plainly decorated. The possibility to climb up is given, instead I would recommend to step on top of the Hotel Ambasciatori, where you can go up to the sunbathed upper terrace and enjoy one of the most beautiful views over Palermo, while spending the money instead on a drink as the entrance to go up is free.

Theater & Architecture

Teatro Massimo - Miraculous Events

To be honest, the first time I arrived at the opera was from the backside, so my first thought was likely not more than: 'Oh an opera, ah okay looks rather boring let's move on.' Once rounded the corner the building awakes my interest, a long row of stairs is climbing down from an uplifted entrance platform, those above sitting roof is held by elaborated Corinth columns, the ceiling delicately decorated by sculptural flowers and patterns. The stairs are flanked on both sides by a long wall, that serves as the elongation of the entrance's platform, on which majestically stand two large bronze lions with women riding on their backs, giving the appearance they could jump off onto the various visitor in the square below. This is the largest and therefore prestigious opera house in the whole of Italy, and also the third largest in Europe.

The most impressive about it though is the inside, which I would primarily see when Gianfranco gets us cheap tickets for a rehearsal of Carmen. The opera's vast round auditorium is stunning, with several circular floors containing separated sections for the audience, offering a wonderful view downwards onto the large stage from almost any sitting place. Everything is covered by a matt gold layer, forcing the eyes to readjust several times in face of this overabundant load of prestige and heavy weighing significance, statues attached to the wall seem to be in unity growing out of the theater, not appearing to have been simply placed here. Dark deep bordeaux red harmonizing with the gold is the omnipresent color of the curtains and cushioning of the seats and balustrades, together with the dimly lit lights this adds to the soft, prestigious ambiance while situated in front of the enormous room, those construction may be a masterpiece regarding the fact that this vast space is held without additional columns or visible balks. The ceiling is adorned with gold as well, flowing around various paintings, and I am told that the ceilings middle circle is slightly set back in order for air to circulate out and in of the enormous, room. At the flat bottom additional seats are placed, further up the ground levels off and holds the orchestra and it's numerous music instruments and professional players. When a the play is on the go, flower shaped lamps around all the circles dim the whole room, simultaneously red lights go on in the separated sections that hold up to a handful of people, touching their inhabitants in a layer of red. The focus is on the stage now..

During my stay I am going to the theater several times most of which I attend to the rehearsals, as the tickets are cheap and the play is already elaborated and equals the normal playing times. As already mentioned, my first one would be 'Carmen', performed in french with english and Italian subtitles on a display panel high above the stage. The acting is professional, impressive and entertaining, even though the play is quite long with approximately 2 to 3 hours and a short break. Second in the row will be 'Macbeth', the tale of a king who is driven mad by the lust and temper of might and influence and therefore sets foot onto a blood-streaked, violent path.

Curiosities & Sightseeing

The Catacombs - Death in Reach

One of the most bizarre things to encounter in Palermo, but somehow weirdly fitting to this decadent and partially run-down city, are the Catacombe dei Cappuccini. Outside the cities center, below the ground are the catacombs, somehow a weird and macabre tourist attraction, but admittedly an interesting thing to see if you are in Palermo. According to historical records, there origin lies in the fact that the cemetery has been outgrown, therefore another place to store the dead bodies, primarily and initially for monks, had to be found. Later on it became a desired goal and a sign of wealth and status to be placed in the depth of the catacombs, therefore also merchants and wealth citizens became part of the catacombs, being embalmed and placed below with the clothes which have been chosen beforehand or later by relatives.

It is actually supposed to be forbidden to take pictures down there, but while I walk through the narrow passages loaded with dead bodies no one really seems to obey to that rule, cheekily taking various pictures not even refraining from using the flash - no one cares. Anyways, please don't tell anyone, let my nastiness be our secret. The long rays of bodies hanging in indentions in the walls with the spotlight falling onto their bizarre, pale skulls and faded clothes is indeed quite a creepy grim sight. Stepping closer in order to observe the lifeless skulls, face to face with each other, I have to imagine the dead body to suddenly reach out for me, grabbing me with it's long bony fingers like in a bad horror movie. Deeper inside we find a coffin with glass walls, in which the perfectly preserved body of a dead girl is nestled into silken cushioning, appearing to have died just recently but strangely is there for many years. I am happy to get back into the warmth of the sun and leave this dark and ominous place, somehow reviewing all these dead bodies does not feel right to me. But the thing I take with me is, that in the end, no matter how rich or wealthy, no matter how handsome or repulsive, no matter if we can afford the finest fashion and fabrics or wear second hand worn out clothes, when the time comes one thing is for certain: we all look the same.

Curiosities & Sightseeing

Via Maqueda & Around

Via Maqueda is one of the main walking streets, running parallel to Via Roma which is highly trafficked, and starting at the main train station, leading up to Teatro Massimo's Square. It passes over into Via Ruggiero Settimo until Teatro Politeama, and from there the street is called Via Liberta. The interesting thing about that is, that the further you proceed, the more pricey the stores and shopping facilities become. It starts with smaller shops, take away food and mini markets, as well as side streets that lead into food markets and makeshift selling booths, continues after the opera house with well-known fashion and home accessories shops until it finally in Via Liberta finds it's end with the highest ranging prices and stores that people with a normal salary would never even set a foot into. Directly i the middle sits one of my favorite places, the Briocca, where it is possible to get one of the best ice creams allover in Sicily, served in a sweet bread roll. The massive amount of gelato you get here for 2,50 Euro topped with a cone filled either with pistachio, dark or white chocolate, replaces a whole dinner. The Intersection of Via Maqueda and the walking street leading up to the cathedral is framed by baroque buildings, named Quatro Canti, which means the four corners. It is also called Teatro del Sole due to the fact that one of the corners would always be touched by sunlight during daytime, no matter from which direction it comes. Around the corner is Piazza Pretoria, a large circular fountain with stairs leading upwards, displaying various statues. The middle basin is circled by various creatures and animals that spit out water into the vast basin.

Food & Markets

Food Markets of Italy

Food indeed plays an important role in Italy, and various markets are to be found in the cities center, which offer piles of colored shiny fruits, plastic bags with spices, dried vegetables, nuts and especially pistachios which are used in many primarily sweet dishes, freshly pressed orange juice, seafood, fish and meat.

Market & Nightlife

Mercato Vucciria - Market during day, Disco at night

Just around the corner where I am situated with my help exchange job lies the Mercato Vucciria, which strangely transforms from a mere market during daytime into an open space discotheque during weekend nights, which would be our weekend stomping ground from time to time. Strolling through there during day is indeed completely different than doing so at night. While busy sellers are offering all different kinds of food in the filthy, run-down somehow nasty streets, piling up wooden boxes to display their goods, the street is not recognizable anymore at night. Massive crowds of people are clogging up the streets, everything that has been set there during day was removed, replaced by chairs, tables and bars, in one of the squares football tables are set, small transportable bars pop out of nowhere with wine, beers and liquors served in plastic cups. In the various bars which have been unremarkable during daytime due to their closed shutters, music hammers out loudly and deep bases vibrate through the body. The main square in the depth of Vucciria is the most interesting moloch to be seen, with the frantic tumult of bodies immersed in outgoing dancing an drinking, white smoke from large barbecues evaporates upwards into the sky. Comparably this place is the mountainous crater of a vulacon, waves of heat erupting from the wild movements of the bodies, hot and sinful in this bottomless pit, amidst the smokey vapors spit out in heavy clouds.

Parks

Green Spaces

Palermo traffic struck and clogged up streets and occasional gloomy corners are highlighted by the various parks it houses. Right next to the Cathedral in front of the Palazzo dei Normanni a green space called Villa Bonnano loaded with thick trunked palms is offering a variety to the grey facades. Deeper in the north there is Villa Trabia as well as Giardino Inglese that offer retreat from the messy laden streets of Palermo's center. The largest and most beautiful one of those all is right next to the coast, so called Villa Giulia is a nicely laid out garden and contains a nice main square and several statues, orange trees and beautifully blooming flowers.

Viewpoint

Hotel Ambassiadori - Coffe?

One of my favorite places in Palermo to overlook it, is a somewhat hidden tip. Gianfranco takes me to the place located in Via Roma, which is in fact the bar & restaurant of a pricey hotel, for non-hotel guests it is possible to go up there to take a steaming coffee or in case of a hot day a cold refreshment. Greeted by the checkerboard patterned terrace with tables and chairs the most gorgeous view offers itself into the heart of Palermo, nestled in the mountainous area around. Various familiar buildings stick out into the sky, like the cathedral in the slightly off-centered west or the round features of opera house teatro massimo further to the right. With the right light, assuming you just popped out of one of the darker grubby alleys in order to reach the top here, the city seems so much more bright, inhered by an inner radiance that shines up from below.

Museums & Culture.

The Entrance to Narnia stays hidden

Palermo offers various museums and exhibitions, therefore it makes sense to check the internet for time schedules and fares, as well there is the offer of national museums being for free on the first sunday of the month, so don't miss the chance if you happen to hit the spot around one of those sundays. During my stay I went to the temporal steve mccurry exhibition, which displayed some of his most splendid and fascinating portraits and landscape photography all over the world, especially taken in India and other asian countries. We archeological museum might also be worthwhile to see, just right around the corner of the enormous post office with it's high massive and plain columns, a heritage of ancient times meant to display power and appear intimidating.