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Antique Lecce - The Origin of Baroque

  • Tobias Heller
  • 20. Okt. 2016
  • 4 Min. Lesezeit

Today I will invade the depth of the southern heel of Apulia right into the heart of Lecce, an antique, ancient city which is also called the origin of the baroque or 'florence of the south'. Venerable old buildings are spread across the whole city, and supposedly the pristine Italian flair is to be encountered here. It is famous as word of the city has spread while I encounter other travelers, therefore I am looking forward to see the city, which will be the deepest located city I will see in Apulia.


Walking

Lecce - A city made for a Stroll

Early in the morning I arrive at the train station, the sun is just about to rise, the air already warm and comfortably endurable - somewhere in the middle between yet freshly reviving and the heat of the the day that will arise with the advancing day. I immediately immerse into the sometimes smaller sometimes more widely designed streets, the houses here are constructed by bricks of sedimentary rocks, which are easily processable and ensure stability and durability during the ages to come. How different this city is though to other cities I came to see along the way is already noticeable while exploring the initial area. The houses are made by that rough, broken-up surface which comes with the stones themselves, giving it a rustic, medieval appearance. The predominant color is the sandy beige, balconies, doors and window shutters are held homogeneously in dark green around all the houses, whereas occasional light green plants in form of cactuses and bushes dot the warmth of the beige walls with life.


Sightseeing & City

Artistic Details spread in every Corner

In Lecce an eye for details will lift your mood up significantly. Allover the city you will find the most gorgeous details in various forms, which makes a stroll in Lecce unique. It can show in little inner courtyards while you glimpse through the irony gateway of a private house or spotting differently patterned tiles for each of the steps, vases with a colorful gloss finish, which in terms of color match perfectly. You may find flower pots placed in front of windows with an array of different little succulents sitting next to each other in a long row or find an old rusty sign hanging slanted on a wall, but instead of deeming this to be mistake, you may think it fits adorably in here. Every little sometimes hidden detail here seems to fit somehow, the rusty pipes, the broken dangling lamp, the overpainted shutters or wildly smeared streets which might be the deed of any rude juvenile vandal - but yet, everything seems to be in harmonic accordance, making those streets remarkable. What adds to that harmony is indeed the lack of trash lying around in the streets, the city government apparently tackles the waste problem, keeping the streets clean, surely touristic purposes play a huge role in that.



Across the city I also find various interesting shops with souvenirs, several hand-made and therefore matchless and exceptional products, paintings and drawings on rustling parchment paper once you run your hand through and various other specialties. Lecce for me is the kind of city where it is unnecessary to run from one touristic attraction to the other one, as the city itself is simply put the attraction itself, where you can get fully immersed in a stroll absorbing the cities uniqueness.


Sightseeing & City

The Baroques Origin - Centro Storico

The center accumulates various old treasures, once I arrive on the main Piazza, a wide open space, I find myself in front of an old roman amphi theater, scattered with huge leftovers of stone around the semicircle of stairs. Around this balconies with statues and various churches can be found, which are by all means worth a visit - assuming you like churches or at least you are interested in architecture. The baroque way of construction is remarkably vivid and palpable here and I am impressed by how authentic and honest this city appears to me.


Churches

The Cathedral - Overflowing with Details

Leeches' pearl is located right in the ancient center, the Basilica di Santa Croce, which shouldn't be missed in my opinion. The richness of details displayed on the facade is stunning, giving a feeling about the cities splendor in the earlier days, that can still be felt while walking the ancient streets. A row of six sleek columns stands up high in front of the church. Interestingly the balustrade is carried by female figures, which is decorated by thirteen angels. The main element is the round bluish window that appears to be the eye of the church, whilst all around androgyne creatures, animals, flowers and garlands move around the facade playfully, arousing the walls to life.


Churches

The Cathedral - Overflowing with Details

While the day advances and I have seen most of the city's areas, I tend to the castle and the adjacent public garden Arriving from the southern site, I find a fountain situated in front of the castles outer wall, with bushy lumps of greenery hanging downwards. I circle the castle run over a Piazza filled with a flea market where various sellers try to get rid of their goods and soon find myself at the entrance of the public garden. I sit down here, pulling out my sketchbook in order to draw as the ambiance is nice an welcoming as well as quiet. The garden is decorated with statues, a water basin with fountains, contains a pavilion with green tiled roof as well as several benches between flower beds and trees. After relaxing here, I stroll back to the train station, where the train back to Brindisi is waiting.


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