Splendid Florence - A magic Place

Tobias Heller
29. Sept. 2016
11 Min. Lesezeit

I take the Bus from Bologna to go to Florence, saying goodbye to my first couch surfing hosts in Italy. Once I arrive in Florence it is already night time, and I get out next to the still busy train station. Waiting here in Florence is an overdose of antique statues, loads of street arts and museums, due to those facilities Florence is one of the most popular cities to visit in the Tuscany. It carries also the name 'Athens of the middle Ages' and is supposed to be the actual birthplace of the Renaissance. According to statistics the city attracts more than over 13 million tourists each year, and reckoning that this is for a reason I am looking forward to explore Florence's historic center.

Sightseeing & City

A first Stroll - Impressive Statues of Florence

I arrive late at night in Florence, heading straight to my hostel across the river, thereby avoiding the city's ancient center, saying it for the upcoming days, when the burden from my shoulders is put in the locker room of the hostel. In the morning I get up early to walk around. Depending on where you start your tour, you will indefinitely cross the Piazza della Signoria, a remarkable Square, which sendsmy heart beat faster at the sight of this assortment of antique treasures. As it is the first time I encounter an array of statues, fountains and busts in an open unique square like this - Rome is yet to come - I am overly excited by the beauty of the place, agitatedly circling around all of the immense oversized statues made of marble and stone, their mere size and the eye for the details the sculptures had on the body proportions makes me feel small and renders me highly impressed.

Sightseeing & City

The Center and Around

In the center everything is in walking reach, and I got the feeling it would not matter how often I wander those streets, I wouldn't get fed up or possibly bored by them - maybe that's just initial exuberant joy. For sure this city is touristically orientated, with various big shopping chains located in the center, just right around the cathedral as well as souvenir shops and posh restaurants, absolutely everything is within a stone's throw reach. Delicious food served in the streets is to be encountered in every corner, and hungrily I cannot resist to queue at a long line into one of the shops in the streets, from which everyone walks outside with a large sandwhich wrapped in paper. I spot fresh rucola, serrano ham, a fiery sauce glistening in the sun while it drips onto the ground when one of the guys who just bought it bites heartily into it. Amazing. Anyways the following days I will not be able to deny myself a slice of pizza as well, considering I am in Italy. There is no way around it.

Church

The Cathedral - Unique Piece

The main attraction though, the element that is displayed and advertised on various postcards in front of the souvenir shops quite simply is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, one of the master pieces of the early renaissance, created by Brunelleschi. The church's circumference is massive, ranking Europe's biggest churches it would score the fourth place - right after Sankt Peters Basilica, Sankt Paul's Church and the Duomo di Milano. Circling the cathedral I find myself immersed into observing all the intricate and complex details which are displayed all around the facade, which are certainly captured by all those tourists around flashing their cameras.

The entrance to the cathedral is free, though it is necessary to accept the waiting times, as there is always a long line waiting in front of the churches main entrance. I happen to arrive at the church about one hour in advance, but still, the queue is already lined up until the far end of the churches length. The churches inner space is enormous, but the feeling of being in a sacred place is completely gone in here, while I am stuck amidst the crowded aisles filled with tourists chatting in various languages. The dome of the church has been painted by Giorgio Vasari himself, though there have been discussion about the painting with critics pointing out that this somehow was an unsuccessful deed. One of the mentioned reasons is that the elaborated details of the dome are impossible to be seen by the churches visitors and prayers from below the floor, of which I agree. It may be beautiful while stepping closer, though from deep down - despite my good eyes - the scenes are nearly not able to be deciphered.

Viewpoint

Ponte Vecchio - The ancient Bridge across the Arno

The oldest bridge do be found in Florence - and certainly the most touristic one, is the medieval bridge 'Ponte Veccchio', that establishes a direct connection to the center with the part across the river Arno. If you come from the west side of Florence, strolling along the rivers flanks, you will certainly spot the bridge already from far distance. The first time I go over there on my way to the center, I step accidentally across it. Once I take I turn onto the bridge, I think I merely stepped into a narrow street, as there are jewelry shops and luxurious souvenir stores placed on both sides, blocking the view to the left and right therefore not giving the impression of being on an actual bridge. As I pass onto the middle, the space opens up, leaving a clear view to both sides framed by arches - this time though blocked by the heads of tourists.

Art & Culture

Great Art - Street Artists, Shows & Handicraft

I love Florence for it's architecture and it's assortment of historic masterpieces, but what really -ndespite the renowned great artists - plays a big role to me in Florence's enchanting allurement are simply put the unknown street artists, which occupy the walkways, filling them with vivid life and beauty. Nothing is impossible to be found. Artists armed with pencils are swiping back and forth across the parchment in front of them, creating unique pieces of fantastic aquarell paintings, depicting various landscapes and elements of the city. At another corner a man kneeling down to the street is solely using the bare floor to put his artwork upon with crayons that go over the grey surface, copying existing masterpieces into large pavement versions. Somehow sad that it will be washed off later either by rain oder by the cleaning services of Florence. In the next square that opens up once you follow the narrow packed street, you may find a singer dressed up in her evening gown chanting into the microphone, the sounds from the speakers reverberating softly from the surrounding walls, whereas at another square young folks may try to set up a breakdance performance.

Despite those arts you may find yourself in a shopping rush. Neatly patterned platters embroidered with gold, venetian masks in all various forms, exotic fine feathers and many handicraft things can be encountered. From one of the markets I by a bound book with handmade leather in order to start some kind of travel diary, in which I would love to do some drawings along the way. I guess I made a good deal, the price starting at a ridiculous amount dropped down to one third of the original price while I stayed persistent, and I am happy to have gotten this lovely book - neglecting the fact that I will have to carry it with me all the time.

Museum & Sightseeing

Loaded with historic Treasures - A museums Day

Today is the first Sunday of the new month, and this is a special day and I feel absolutely lucky to be right in time at the right place: all national Museums are for free! And this is not only the case in Florence, but allover in the bigger cities of Italy, so save that date!

The previous day I strolled around with two australian guys, Jake and Bailey, which I met at the Hostel I stayed in, also traveling around in Europe for quite a long time and a Yulizh, a young german girl, who just finished her school. We get up early in the morning - museums being for free, with entry prices normally ranging between 6 to 12 Euros of course appeal an immense mass of tourists. We make your way to Uffizi Gallery, one of the most famous museums, containing master pieces in form of sculptures and paintings of various well-known artists of the italian renaissance. Though arriving 45 minutes before the actual opening times, the line of people is already making half a round in the Piazzale degli Uffizi, a small square in front of the museum framed by columns and statues of historically famous personalities, such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo Buonarotti. Thinking that it will take forever to get inside, we queue at the end of all the other tourists of various nations, suffering vicariously with us in face of the upcoming waiting time. When the opening time has arrived, the line is already so long, that it the end is not visible inside the elongated rectangular square anymore, so we deem ourselves lucky to be somewhere in the first third. Unexpectedly, we get inside quickly, as the line flows inside the opened building with continuous steps. Inside we find ourselves in a huge decorated hallway flanked by statues on each side brightened up by golden morning sunlight piercing through the windows. The hallway overlooks the square downstairs, with the line of people queuing seeming to be endless - at least we got inside early.

Museo Nationale de Bargello, As we got a busy schedule, we get outside the already warmed up morning air to our next museum, a palace with an inner courtyard and stairs leading to the upper floors, loaded with heavy impressive marble statues, ceramic vases and pots as well as other paintings. In the medieval times, this building was also used as a prison with executions taking place in the small courtyard, later on those were abolished. We don't spend too much time lingering here, as it is way smaller and to go through here won't take as much time as it took us in Uffizi. Still we need to look at one of the most important and loved statues in the city, the Davide.

A more important stop while visiting Florence therefore is the Academia di Belle Arti di Firenze. Unmistakably it also accommodates various of our marble friends and further classic art works, but overall it houses the original version of the Davide, created by Michelangelo. The rooms of the Academia are high and flooded with light from above, and once I stand in front of the statue I admittedly have to confess I expected a way smaller sculpture, but it indeed is over 5 meters high, overlooking all it's visitors. I have already encountered the statue on the Piazza della Signora, but disappointingly this only is a fake copy, placed in front of Palazzo Vecchio. The original version once stood amidst the square right in front of the palace, but later on it has been moved to the Academia for protectional reasons, and the empty space was left with a replica.

It is already late afternoon, we are exhausted by the mere amount of statues, busts, oil paintings and sculptures we have seen, but to round up the tour we go to the last national Museum on the list, Palazzo Pitti, therefore crossing over Ponte Vecchio once more. Lazily, not able to take in further information, we stroll through the exlclusive, richly adorned, overly loaded and stuffed palace rooms, finding various further classic paintings mounted on the walls. Once we are through, we take a stroll in the Pitti Gardens, which are also included in the free entry, happy to be in green spaces for a while, strolling around the vast expenses of the site. We are happy to have seen so many things in just one day, though a bit of an overload for the brain and tiresome, the schedule worked out pretty well on this.

Viewpoint

Piazza Michelangelo - A marvelous View

If you walk along the river on the off-center side of the river and follow a long street to the east side of Florence, then you will find the way climbing up after a while. Normally, depending of course on the time you decide to walk up there, you will notice that you are on the right track if you see several tourists walking the same street, as it leads up to Piazza Michelangelo, from where a stunning view right over the whole center of Florence reveals itself. The first time I go up here I am completely by myself during daytime and decide to walk up here once more in order to see the sunset. My little travel company from the hostel joins me after a long museums day to go upwards, our rucksacks filled with several cool beers and some snacks. Sitting here with company and the sun rising below the horizon while a musician plays nearby is way better than the first time I have been up here - all alone. Regarding my personality, I am seldom really tranquilized and relaxed, but up here with those now made friends, I am overly eased and stress-relieved.

Tower & Architecture

Palazzo Vecchio - Climbing the Tower

I get to know Iacopo, a local Italian living in Florence who offers me to be hosted in his home, which is slightly off the center in a tranquilized less touristic area. I am happy to leave the hostel, where you may meet many people with interesting travel stories, and yes while staying I have heard of a few amazing once, giving me the feeling of being a boring traveller sometimes, but yet it can be tiresome. A prolonged stay would not be favorable, because after all I finally realize that crossing the Alps is still stuck deeply in my bones, which underlies the fact that I never took any real rest afterwards. Therefore it suits me perfectly to be able to stay longer, taking it slow this time. Once more I am overly lucky, as Iacopo works for Palazzo Vecchio, and is able to get me a free ticket - as it is no national museum it was no gratis entry during the first sunday of the month. I haven't been on the cathedral's tower, so instead I go onto Palazzo Vecchio's Tower, which offers a great view over Florence and the cathedral which sticks out as a massive building, protruding highly into the sky, leaving the surrounding buildings with their red roofs looking small and tiny compared to the colossal church. Being up here gives me a wonderful feeling of being an observer, high above all the busy, lively buzzing streets, with the wind carrying up sounds occasionally down from the streets, but otherwise being relatively quiet up here.

The Palazzo offers various rooms to go through, extremely decoracted in elusive details, that seem to be on the verge of blasting the room's walls up by the flamboyant heaviness of the interior. The most precious room though is the one I'll end up towards the finish of the tour, the 'Room of the 500', with a length of over 50 meter and 23 meters width, so called as the Grand Council had it's meetings in previous days, consisting of 500 members. Looking upwards, the ceiling offers amazing artwork as well: 39 painted panels are set into the top, created by Vasili. That rooms sides are flanked by enormous paintings, rendering me dumbfounded asking myself how much time would an artist have to spend on an immense painting like that?

Culture & Curiosities

Touching the Bronze Pig

Many cities have their own kind of superstitious legend, or let's say wise sayings, and so of course does Florence. There is a metallic Pig next to a market, which wouldn't seem very prominent actually and you may miss it easily. But the only thing that draws the attention is the omnipresent bunch of tourists that gather in front of it in order to touch the nose of the Pig. Yes, that's basically it! According to the saying, those who indeed touch the pig's nose will return back to Florence again. Nonsense, right? Did I touch the nose anyways? Maybe....